Thursday, May 28, 2009

Success in Dry Shade

Professor Penumbra here, to enlighten you about the challenge of gardening in dry shade. It is not all doom and gloom. We will use the garden of Squirrelhaven as our model.
Every year, unless there is near constant rainfall, the soil of the garden and lawns of Squirrelhaven dries out so completely that it develops large cracks. This spring alone, despite the moisture from the melting of snow and the abundance of spring rain, the garden and lawn already began to crack from a mere 10 days without measurable rainfall, going from squishy and too wet to plant, to parched and too dry to plant in about a week. Such conditions are too inhospitable for Astilbes. By August, the leaves are typically brown and blooming may be stunted or absent. Yearly, the Aruncus has decreased in size. If it hadn't been for two back-to-back wet summers, it would probably have died already. It has long since ceased to bloom. The gardener here insists on growing Caulophyllum thalictroides for sentimental reasons, even though it prefers more moist conditions than that in which it finds itself. By midsummer, its foliage is usually starting to tatter.Astrantias don't bloom nearly as long as they should. Don't even think about planting those bold foliaged moisture-loving plants Ligularias and Rodgersia here. They probably wouldn't survive a season.
So you must be wondering what can be grown in dry shade? Two of the stalwarts of Squirrelhaven may surprise you: Hostas and Daylilies (Hemerocallis hybrids).Both prefer more moisture, but will perform adequately in dryness, and, while the Daylilies don't bloom as profusely in shade, the blooms hold their color better. Another surprising couple of performers are the Lobelias 'Monet Moment' and L. syphilitica. Despite the dryness, they bloom for a couple of months. Heucheras, Heucherellas, and Tiarellas perform well in dry conditions, appreciating the good winter drainage. For groundcovers, Epimediums, Wild Gingers (Asarum canadense), Lady's Mantle (Alchemilla mollis), and Labrador Violets (Viola labradorica) thrive here. Columbines do very well, as do Peach-leaved Bellflowers (Campanula perscifolia), both seeding freely.

The native woodlanders Solomon's Seal (Polyganatum species), Solomon's Plume (Maianthemum racemosum/Smilacina racemosa), Anemonella thalictroides (Thalictrum thalictroides), and Geranium maculatum all perform well without much moisture, while the native Celadine Poppy tends to die back in the middle of a dry summer, rather than continuing to bloom, and the foliage of Sanguinaria canadensis dies back earlier. For autumn bloom, Japanese Anemones and the native Woodland Aster (formerly Aster divaricata) do very well and Monkshood (unknown Aconitum species) manages to provide a good show. The best performing Fern here is the evergreen Christmas Fern. Hellebores thrive in the dry shade, even the fussy Christmas Rose (H. orientalis).
Shrubs for dry shade are more of a challenge. Evergreens seem to fare the best. Boxwood (Buxus of unknown species), has thrived here, freely reseeding. Yew also does very well, despite the winter predations of deer. Thujas, both occidentalis and plicata, tolerate the shade and dryness, growing more slowly than in moister conditions. Of deciduous shrubs, the best performer is Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), blooming and sporting autumnal foliage color despite the lack of moisture. Cornus alternifolia performs adequately, but its fall color suffers from the dryness.
The two wet summers have revealed a positive side to dry shade. It has kept in check some plants in need of it. Before those wet summers, the Japanese Anemone (Anemone x hybrida 'Andrea Atkinson') was well behaved and stayed in its beds. During and after those summers, it has begun sending out long, deep runners, crowding other plants and popping up in the middle of the paths. The native Spikenard (Aralia racemosa), is planted in a confined area. The dryness kept it at a manageable 3 feet; after wet summers, it has soared upward and outward, obstructing the path. The extra moisture has turned Aster tataricus into a raging beast, forcing the gardener to remove vast quantities of it. Even Goutweed, which was growing here when I bought the property, was kept in check until I dug it all out.
Clearly, there is no need to despair of dry shade. While challenging, a garden can grow and bloom in such conditions.
This post is part of Design Workshop at Gardening Gone Wild.

13 comments:

tina said...

Very good post! I struggle with dry shade here too. Your garden is lovely and I am glad so many plants do well for you there in those conditions.

Helen said...

Yes, I'm another dry shade girl. To the list, I'll add: Violas, which reseed themselves liberally here, as do Euphorbia polychroma. I'm happy to let them do it in the dry shade garden. In sun, they'd be a bit of a pest. Iris intermedia blooms well (it's fairly open shade under Norway maples) and a little later than the norm in the shadier parts. I've had good luck with Hydrangea 'Annabelle', whose compact size helps. Also, Spirea x bumalda 'Goldflame' -- the yellow coloration isn't as intense as it would be in sun, but it does add a touch of sunlight to a dark corner. Finally, perennial Geraniums, especially G. sanguineum, which now comes in a range of pretty colours beyond the standard magenta.

Yolanda Elizabet Heuzen said...

I just popped by to wish you a wonderful Spring Fling!!!!

Off to Britain!

Darla said...

Great info here. I am glad to read that the Oakleaf will do fine in dry shade. We just planted one and it has rained on and off for two weeks so it's should be on it's way to being established and then, the watering will be hit and miss.

Diane said...

Such lovely plants as always. I have a question, though - are we or are we not supposed to plant things near tree trunks? I've heard it both ways and the last thing I want to do is hurt my maple and redbud with ill-advised water-slurpers in their root zones. On the other hand, most of their active root zone must be off in the grassy areas near and beyond the dripline anyway. As that maple causes our front yard grass to diminish, deciding what to do becomes more pressing!

healingmagichands said...

I enjoyed this post. I garden in shade at spots in my yard, mostly it is dry but lately it has been very wet! I have found that hostas do well, but they do appreciate the fact that I have installed a drip irrigation system for them, especially during the August baking season.
Good to know about the ligularia, I was toying with buying it for a spot in the new stroll garden. I am hoping to have something xeric when I am done, so a moisture lover wouldn't really fit in with the overall plan.

Nan Ondra said...

Thanks for sharing this post too, MMD. How exciting to know about the lobelias tolerating dry shade! That pink one is really lovely.

Shady Gardener said...

MMD, I always learn a lot from you. :-) A lot of my shade is dry, too... however last year's perfectly timed rainfall nearly all summer almost has almost erased the word "dry" from my memory bank. We'll see what happens this year. But, I appreciate being armed with this information! Have a Wonderful Spring Fling! I DO hope to make a trip to Chicago sometime this Summer, and I hope a visit to Squirrelhaven will work for both you and me!

Mr. McGregor's Daughter said...

Thanks, Tina! Struggling with dry shade makes us better gardeners, right? ;^)

Helen - I can't decide which is more of a water hog, Norway Maple or Cottonwood. Using the Spirea in shade is a great idea, you know I love that chartreuse.

Y.E. - thanks! It'll be interesting to resume my regularly scheduled life.

Darla - I think you will love your Oakleaf Hydrangea. I love mine so much, I planted a second one last fall.

Diane - In general, I don't plant things near the trunks of newly planted trees. I have no love for the Cottonwood, so I feel no compunction about planting up against it. For the young trees I've planted, I try to keep things at least 4-6 inches from the trunk, although some plants self-sow themselves closer. I'm trying to recreate the conditions of a savanna, where plants grow under the trees, and often up against them. It doesn't seem to have as great an effect on the trees as a lawn does. Tree roots tend to be much more vigorous than perennials roots, although I would be very careful digging and planting around the Redbud's roots, as they are very susceptible to root injury and often die from it.

HMH - Ligularias are so beautiful, but only when well grown. Sigh...

Nan - Not only is Lobelia 'Monet Moment' a great looking plant, it's also a great performer. But I think it doesn't go so well with the purple of Phlox 'Laura.'

Shady - I'm trying not to get used to all the lovely lushness from the past 2 years. I don't have any plans to travel anywhere this summer, so I hope you can make it over for a visit.

Blackswamp_Girl said...

MMD, great post! One addition that I would make to your list is brunnera. 'Jack Frost' gives me a month or so of bloom (depending on the spring) and then those silvery leaves carry me through the rest of the growing season. Curiously, silvery varieties of pulmonaria have done well for me, too, although I always thought of them as moisture lovers first.

You're sooooo right about the ligularia. I inherited one raised bed of good, trucked-in soil in my backyard... the 'Othello' ligualaria there, where the moisture holds, is lovely and also reseeds. The 'Othello' in my dry driveway bed on the other hand... well, it just needs to be dug out already! *sigh*

Mr. McGregor's Daughter said...

BG - I thought about including Brunnera, but too often the leaves get crispy in my garden. I'm so jealous of your 'Othello'!

Cindy, My Corner of Katy said...

I love that Lobelia! Wish it would grow for me in Texas. Even L. cardinalis doesn't fare too well, and it's a native. The blue variety I brought back from Colorado last summer is struggling to make it.

It was a real treat to see this garden for myself! Thanks, MMD!

Mr. McGregor's Daughter said...

Cindy - you're welcome. It was a pleasure having you visit.